Yoshoku, Recipes Derived from Western Dishes
Napolitan spaghetti is a typical dish of Japanese cuisine, specifically yoshoku, which, however, has little to do with Naples. Cuisine, as we know, is built upon cultural influences from abroad. In Japan, there is a specific term, yoshoku, to describe recipes derived from Western dishes. This perfectly fits Napolitan spaghetti, although its recipe contains an ingredient that might make some cringe: ketchup.
Japanese Cuisine Reimagined: The Story of Napolitan Spaghetti
The history of Napolitan spaghetti fully embodies the concept of yoshoku. It was first prepared by Shigetada Irie, the chef at the New Grand Hotel in Yokohama. We are in the last century, World War II has just ended, and some American troops remain stationed in the East. Among them was General McArthur, a guest at the Yokohama establishment, who was “honored” with a dish inspired by Western culinary traditions, taking cues from the rations of American soldiers.
The Recipe, in Its American Version
In defense of Chef Irie, the original Napolitan spaghetti recipe did not include ketchup but instead the more traditional canned tomatoes. However, their scarcity in Japan necessitated a change in ingredients. Begin by dicing half an onion, four slices of ham, a green bell pepper (with the ends removed), and mincing garlic and parsley (these quantities serve one person). While boiling water for the pasta, heat olive oil in a pan and add the onions. Cook them over medium heat until golden. Add the garlic, ham, and 5 champignon mushrooms. Then add the bell pepper and finally three tablespoons of the “infamous” ketchup. Stir everything together, and once the pasta is cooked, mix it with the sauce, adding a bit of butter and Parmesan.
